Fashion Council Germany Hosts Party at German Ambassador’s Residence

The Fashion Council Germany introduced a selection of its emerging and established designers to London with a cocktail reception at the German Ambassador’s residence. Fifteen designers presented a selection from their fall collections in a static presentation in a grand 19th-century ballroom. Guests — including Markus Lupfer, who showed during London Fashion Week; shoe designer Lily Atherton-Hanbury; Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis, and art collector Valeria Napoleone — mingled with the designers over cocktails and got acquainted with them and their work.
“What we want right now is to create an awareness that there is fashion design in Germany and I think that it’s getting better in Berlin, but I think we have to show it and of course fashion weeks around the world are the perfect times and places,” said Christiane Arp, president of the Fashion Council Germany and editor of Vogue Germany.
Many of the emerging talents, including William Fan, whose collections are genderless, and Karen Jensen of Benu Berlin had hopes of meeting international buyers in London to expand their retailers.
“We’re based in Berlin and it works really well in Germany but I want to be more international,” said Fan. “People are really willing to talk to you here.”
For more established

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Vera Wang Talks Red-Carpet Dressing at CFDA, Variety, WWD Luncheon

Vera Wang balanced wit and humor with seriousness and reflection as she talked about her career and red-carpet styling during a talk at the Chateau Marmont Tuesday.
The luncheon was the start of the “Runway to Red Carpet” initiative put on via a partnership among the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Variety and WWD. The latter two share a parent in Penske Media Corp.
Wang’s talk officially began a two-week showcase at Fred Segal in Los Angeles of 10 CFDA designers.
“Our main mission and goal at the CFDA is to promote American fashion worldwide and we thought there was no better way to do that than here in Los Angeles during awards season,” CFDA president and chief executive officer Steven Kolb said.
Wang’s talk, moderated by WWD West Coast bureau chief Marcy Medina, was aimed at providing insight from a longtime designer who has snagged plenty of red-carpet successes.
“When you’ve had the success and the experience that Vera’s had, you don’t have to hold back on your words,” Kolb said just before the program began. “You can say what you think, and Vera often does, and I find it incredibly refreshing and insightful.”
Here, an edited version of the “Runway to Red Carpet”

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Emerging Designers Shine at On|Off

On|Off, the London-based platform showcasing up-and-coming design talent, chose five designers to present their fall collections at the BFC show space on the closing night of London Fashion Week.
Included were Luke Anthony Rooney and Jack Irving, who staged their collections with On|Off last season, as well as Honest Man, Longshaw Ward and This Is the Uniform.
Among the highlights were Irving’s sculptural pieces, which continued to explore the manipulation of plastic shards into origami-like folds, adding texture to simple silhouettes including an elongated hoodie. Also included were bodysuits dripping with Mylar pieces that shimmered down the runway, as well as supersized silver Mylar spikes attached to inflatable rings that sat on the hips.
Another noteworthy collection was Joseph Standish’s label Honest Man, which was entirely made using ethically sourced materials. Standish’s man seems to be preparing for a post-apocalyptic dystopia with masked faces and protective outerwear. Some of his models wore backpacks on their chests while others carried mannequins sat at desks. Denim jackets were frayed and fused with other garments, transforming the familiar into something unexpectedly fresh.

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Sophia Webster Ballroom Dances Her Way Into Fall 2018

DANCING QUEEN: British accessories designer Sophia Webster has always been known for using her seasonal presentations as a platform to bring her fantasy-filled, flamboyant world alive.
For fall, she went all out: she transformed the Café Royal’s Pompadour ballroom into a scene from Baz Luhrmann’s “Strictly Ballroom” — one of her favorite films — complete with tinsel curtains, giant revolving disco balls, crystals and feathers galore.
Webster, who danced competitively in her youth, said this was a very personal collection. “I was drawn to the costumes, the competition, everything. It was mine and my sister’s favorite film when we were younger, so I wanted to revisit it with a dance competition-inspired collection. It helps when something feels authentic to me.”
Guests were greeted with a playful neon sign that read: “I don’t need a mango to tango,” before being immersed into the sparkly world of competitive dancing. There were shelves filled with dance competition trophies placed next to crystal-embellished heeled sandals, models on podiums who danced in their feather-embellished ankle boots and professional Latin dancers performing in front of a glittering Coca-Cola banner — part of a collaboration with the designer.
Webster noted that the brand’s evening collection has been performing particularly strongly, so

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Alison Loehnis Marks a Decade at Net-a-porter Group

TURNING TEN: Federico Marchetti raised a toast this week to Alison Loehnis, president of Net-a-porter Group, to mark her 10 years at the company. The party was held at Laylow, the newly refurbished private members’ club in west London, with Bella Freud DJ’ing in glittery Gucci flatform sandals.
Olivia Palermo, Mary McCartney, Jacquetta Wheeler, Justin Thornton, Thea Bregazzi and Roksanda Ilincic were among the guests at Monday night’s party. They mingled with the Yoox Net-a-porter team, including Lucy Yeomans, editor in chief of Net-a-porter and Elizabeth von der Goltz, the site’s global buying director.
Loehnis joined Net-a-porter.com in 2007 as vice president of sales and marketing before becoming president of the site in 2011. In 2015, she was promoted to president of the group, overseeing Net-a-porter, Mr Porter, Theoutnet.com and Porter magazine.
While they may have let their hair down at the party, the YNAP team remained tight-lipped about Richemont’s proposed takeover of the group. YNAP’s chief executive officer Marchetti said he couldn’t comment, but said that “Alison has been a great sparring partner. When you do a merger, you want someone beside you who’s supportive. It has been great working with her.”
The big question on everyone’s lips wasn’t about the future of YNAP but rather what will happen

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Victoria Beckham Downplays Possibility of Spice Girls Reunion Tour

HOLD THE SPICE: Spice Girls groupies, look away now. The British press may have breathlessly reported that a Spice Girls reunion tour was imminent after the group reunited earlier this month at the home of Geri Horner, aka Ginger Spice, for a friendly catch-up.
Beckham said it’s premature to talk about touring and performing together again. “There is nothing tangible. It was great seeing the girls. Everybody got very excited, but there is no tour, there is no recording,” she said on the sidelines of her Victoria Victoria Beckham presentation during London Fashion Week on Tuesday.
“I think, for us, it’s about protecting the legacy, and asking how we continue the girl power message. How do we continue that, and pass it on to future generations? We’re just looking at how we pass that message, as opposed to us going on tour or recording or doing a TV show. It’s not about that. It’s about us looking the legacy and protecting it. And we all feel the same about that.”
The timing couldn’t be better what with the Time’s Up and #MeToo movements in full swing, and the group certainly wouldn’t have any trouble telegraphing messages to their audience. British media outlets report on every

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Queen Elizabeth Attends Richard Quinn Show at London Fashion Week

THE QUEEN AT QUINN: Queen Elizabeth made a surprise appearance at emerging designer Richard Quinn’s runway show on Tuesday afternoon as part of a visit to London Fashion Week and to present Quinn with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design.
She wore a duck egg blue tweed dress and jacket embellished with Swarovski crystals. It was designed by Angela Kelly, her longtime dressmaker.

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Gorjana Continues Store Growth Push in NoLIta

JEWEL BOX: A little bit of Laguna Beach has made its way to NoLIta with the opening of jewelry brand Gorjana’s second store.
The jewelry company — known for its delicate necklaces, rings and bracelets made for layering — opened its first store in Laguna in 2016 followed by last year’s expansions onto Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice and its first New York store at 4th and Bank Streets in New York’s West Village in a space previously occupied by Marc Jacobs.
“The West Village store is doing fantastic,” founder and creative director Gorjana Reidel said. “It’s been wonderful to have a store in the neighborhood we’ve been part-time residents in for the last decade and be so well received. Customers are drawn to our light and airy Californian aesthetic and are loving all the positive energy.”
Reidel noted the store has helped expose the line to a good number of Parisian customers visiting the space.
Last year’s move into New York was a significant one for the business, which Reidel started with husband and chief executive officer Jason Reidel more than a decade ago when the two bootstrapped the company and shopped the line themselves from boutique to boutique and at trade shows.

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Fashion for Conservation Debuts Campaign to Protect Amazon Rainforest

Fashion for Conservation presented two collections during London Fashion Week that were inspired by the Amazonian rain forest to raise awareness about the damaged ecosystem. Each collection featured zero waste and included materials from end of bolt textiles from interior design companies and upcycled pieces from donated clothes.
Kent-based designer Kalikas Armour opened the Rainforest Runway show with a collection inspired by the indigenous tribes who are living, and subsequently suffering, within the rain forest as the ecosystem declines. He sourced ethically made fabrics from around Europe and produced the one-off pieces in his studio. The black and gold collection was focused on eveningwear including shimmery gowns in varying lengths, sweeping opera coats and sequined suits with gold floral motifs.
Houston-based designer René Garza for the Magpies & Peacocks nonprofit design house utilized off-cuts and end of bolt textiles and discarded clothes and tablecloths and gave them a new life as beautifully draped dresses — some were long and fluid while others were nipped at the waist or featured plissé detailing. The show closed with a billowing yellow gown that started life as a tablecloth.
Celebratory cocktails followed the show, where Fashion for Conservation raised funds for Hoja Nueva, a non-profit organization that

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